We know that Rawl/Powers 5-piece bolts have not faired well in the medium hardness schist here in Vermont. Even when a full stainless bolt system is used the bolts tend to loosen within a few years. While a loose bolt is never ideal, a loose sleeve anchor is more troubling than a loose wedge bolt due to the way the bolt functions.
We have a few routes that have loose 5-piece bolts and in some cases these bolts become true spinners (meaning that when tightened the entire bolt assembly spins in the hole). This means that the mechanical expansion effect is no longer functioning properly. This effect is what makes a bolt a bolt for climbing purposes, so this is highly concerning.
One such bolt exists on True Value at Upper West along with a loose pair of Super Shuts at the anchor. So today these were removed and upgraded with 12mm glue-in bolts. The anchor was configured as a lower-off with Fixe Super Shuts but this has been changed to quicklinks and stainless biners as the super shuts are not compatible with the glue-in bolts we are using to replace hardware.
See the video/pictures below for before and after comparisons.
